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One-Stop Resource for Bike Tours Worldwide
Representing Local Bike Tour Companies
More than 400 Tours in 70 Countries
Get our newsletter | Contact Us
Call (877) 462-2423 or (423) 756-8907
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| Type of tour: | Self-guided |
| Level: | Leisurely |
| Duration: | 7 Nights |
| Distance: | 32 Miles/day average |
| Dates: | Self-guided: Daily: May 5 - Sep 28, 2013 |
| Tour price: | €510 |
| Start city: | Krimml, Austria |
| End city: | Passau, Germany |
From the Salzach origin above Saalach (lake) and Inn to the Danube - it is hard to believe that cycling could be so convenient and easy on flat dedicated bike paths through the world of the Alps. Following the “Donauradweg” (Danube-bike-path), on the banks of the Salzach, the Saalach and the Inn a bike network was created. This is manageable by everybody and also classified as child-friendly. The continuous labelling ensures a untroubled cycling pleasure from the Krimmler Wasserfälle (waterfall) to the Dreiflüsse-Stadt Passau (city where the two rivers Inn and Ilz are leading in the Danube).
Surrounded by high mountains, the Tauern Bicycle Path is nothing to be afraid of: it follows the Salzach and Saalach rivers which means that the route takes you through predominantly flat or slightly hilly country, going downhill with the wind in your back most of the way. Our tour takes one week, allowing plenty of time visiting the numerous natural sights and monuments along the way. The Salzach valley offers more sights and a generally better track, while the Saalach valley is recommended for lovers of unspoiled nature.
Trekking and touring bikes are ideally suited for the Tauern Bicycle Path. With mountain bikes your are almost "overequipped" since there are no extreme inclines, but they do let you take challenging detours into the high mountains.The few steep sections are clearly marked in the detailed route maps. Racing bikes can also be used on the Salzach valley route provided you ride carefully on the few gravel roads or use the main roads instead.
Click on "Article" link to the right to read more about the Tauern Bike Path.
From the Salzach origin above Saalach (lake) and Inn to the Danube - it is hard to believe that cycling could be so convenient and easy on flat dedicated bike paths through the world of the Alps. Following the “Donauradweg” (Danube-bike-path), on the banks of the Salzach, the Saalach and the Inn a bike network was created. This is manageable by everybody and also classified as child-friendly. The continuous labelling ensures a untroubled cycling pleasure from the Krimmler Wasserfälle (waterfall) to the Dreiflüsse-Stadt Passau (city where the two rivers Inn and Ilz are leading in the Danube).
Surrounded by high mountains, the Tauern Bicycle Path is nothing to be afraid of: it follows the Salzach and Saalach rivers which means that the route takes you through predominantly flat or slightly hilly country, going downhill with the wind in your back most of the way. Our tour takes one week, allowing plenty of time visiting the numerous natural sights and monuments along the way. The Salzach valley offers more sights and a generally better track, while the Saalach valley is recommended for lovers of unspoiled nature.
Trekking and touring bikes are ideally suited for the Tauern Bicycle Path. With mountain bikes your are almost "overequipped" since there are no extreme inclines, but they do let you take challenging detours into the high mountains.The few steep sections are clearly marked in the detailed route maps. Racing bikes can also be used on the Salzach valley route provided you ride carefully on the few gravel roads or use the main roads instead.
Click on "Article" link to the right to read more about the Tauern Bike Path.
Day 1: Krimml
Individual arrival to Krimml.
Day 2: Krimml - Stuhlfelden/Mittersill - Kaprun/Zell am See (36-41 miles/58-66 km)
Above Rosental (region) you cycle to the entrance of the Obersulzbachtal and further to Neukirchen. The Kammerlandertal is always worth a visit. Further on it goes toward Habachtal, well-known for its emerald-sites. In Mittersill you should visit the museum in Felbertrum. Now your way leads to Piesendorf (city), where the Hinkelsteinbad (lido) invites to a jump into the water. Milestone of today are the cities Zell am See or Kaprun.
Overnight in Zell am See.
Day 3: Zell am See/Kaprun - Lofer (28 miles/45 km)
You are leaving the upper vale of the Salzach and from now you follow the very well articulated upstream of the Saalach. The bicycle lawn leads through the wide basin of Saalfelden (city) and the famous place of pilgrimage Maria Alm towards Lofer (city).The Seisenbergklamm and the Lamprechtshöhe are rewarding nature monuments on your way to the milestone of today.
Overnight in Lofer.
Day 4: Lofer - Salzburg (35 miles/56 km)
Near Unken (city) the “Steinerne Meer” breaks in an impressive way and in this reach of the river has become a paradise for Rafter. Always following the riverside you reach the “kleines deutsches Eck” near Unken (city) with the health resort Bad Reichenhall and the wide plain of the Salzburg basin. Through the Saalachauen you reach the Mozartstadt Salzburg (native city of a famous Austrian composer).
Overnight in Salzburg.
Day 5: Salzburg – Burghausen (33 miles/53 km)
With Salzburg you leave the world of the Alps and cycle along the lower Salzach to Oberndorf (city where the world-famous song “Stille Nacht” was created; Stille Nacht Chapel) and Burghausen (city with the greatest castle complex in Europe).
Overnight in Burghausen.
Day 6: Burghausen - Bad Füssing (31 miles/49 km)
Passing by the point where the Salzach river flows into the Inn river you arrive at Braunau, the largest city of the Inn region. Following the Inn river on a narrow path and crossing through meadows and fields, you reach the thousand-year-old town Obernberg. The remarkable market square is lined with interesting old houses which still retain rococo style. Soon you arrive at Reichersberg with its monastery, seat of the Augustinian monks for more than 900 years. Following the embankment of the river Inn you reach Schärding after 17 kilometers.
Overnight in Bad Füssing.
Day 7: Bad Füssing - Passau (27 miles/43 km)
Today you cycle above Schärding, Austria's finest baroque city to your target Passau, which was listed as one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. Worth seeing is the “Dreiflüsseeck” - place where the two rivers Inn and Ilz are leading in the Danube - and the St. Stephans cathedral, where the worlds biggest church organ is located.
Overnight in Passau.
Day 8: Depart
Depart after breakfast.
Daily: May 5 - Sep 28, 2013
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These are sample hotels and may vary based on availability.
Day 1: Hotel Klockerhaus, Krimml
www.klockerhaus.com
In a quiet, central location enjoy views of the world famous Krimmler waterfalls and the impressive 3000+ metre mountains of the High Tauern.Set your soul free after an eventful day in our wellness oasis in the nature of the High Tauern National Park.
Day 2: Hotel-Gasthof Mühle, Kaprun
www.muehle-kaprun.at
Enjoy the comfort of 4 stars combined with the genuine Salzburger ambience which has a habit of turning guests into friends.
Day 3: Hotel Zum Hirschen, Lofer
www.hotel-zum-hirschen.at
The atmosphere in our hotel is dignified and familial, feeling comfortable is guaranteed. The family Pacalt will do its best to make you feel welcome and home every single minute. After a magnificent day in Zell am See and enjoying the nature surrounding this place you can relax in our wellness and spa area.
Day 4: Hotel Mercure Salzburg City, Salzburg
www.mercure.com
Guests appreciate our quiet location, proximity to the city centre (12 minutes walk) and convenient access to the motorway and public transport - An ideal base for visiting the city of Mozart.
Day 5: Hotel Bayerischer Hof, Burghausen
www.bayerischer-hof-burghausen.de
From the hotel you can enjoy a marvelous few to Europe`s largest castle-complex.
Day 6: Flair Hotel Vino Vitalis, Bad Füssing
www.vinovitalis.de
Relax, rest and enjoy in this personal family-run hotel. We recommend you to visit the spa facilities of the city.
Day 7: Hotel Weißer Hase, Passau
www.weisser-hase.de
Relax in one of the 108 comfortable rooms that were renovated in 2007. An eye-catcher are the more than 200 paintings of Otto Sammer, a famous painter of Passau, which you can see in all rooms and in the public areas of the hotel.
Interested in visiting other areas before or after your tour? Visit our hotels page to learn more about lodging options.
These are sample hotels and may vary based on availability.
Day 1: Hotel Klockerhaus, Krimml
www.klockerhaus.com
In a quiet, central location enjoy views of the world famous Krimmler waterfalls and the impressive 3000+ metre mountains of the High Tauern.Set your soul free after an eventful day in our wellness oasis in the nature of the High Tauern National Park.
Day 2: Hotel-Gasthof Mühle, Kaprun
www.muehle-kaprun.at
Enjoy the comfort of 4 stars combined with the genuine Salzburger ambience which has a habit of turning guests into friends.
Day 3: Hotel Zum Hirschen, Lofer
www.hotel-zum-hirschen.at
The atmosphere in our hotel is dignified and familial, feeling comfortable is guaranteed. The family Pacalt will do its best to make you feel welcome and home every single minute. After a magnificent day in Zell am See and enjoying the nature surrounding this place you can relax in our wellness and spa area.
Day 4: Hotel Mercure Salzburg City, Salzburg
www.mercure.com
Guests appreciate our quiet location, proximity to the city centre (12 minutes walk) and convenient access to the motorway and public transport - An ideal base for visiting the city of Mozart.
Day 5: Hotel Bayerischer Hof, Burghausen
www.bayerischer-hof-burghausen.de
From the hotel you can enjoy a marvelous few to Europe`s largest castle-complex.
Day 6: Flair Hotel Vino Vitalis, Bad Füssing
www.vinovitalis.de
Relax, rest and enjoy in this personal family-run hotel. We recommend you to visit the spa facilities of the city.
Day 7: Hotel Weißer Hase, Passau
www.weisser-hase.de
Relax in one of the 108 comfortable rooms that were renovated in 2007. An eye-catcher are the more than 200 paintings of Otto Sammer, a famous painter of Passau, which you can see in all rooms and in the public areas of the hotel.
Interested in visiting other areas before or after your tour? Visit our hotels page to learn more about lodging options.
This tour uses branded tour bicycles that are light weight and equipped with 21-speed derailleur and freewheel. Upon request, there is a 7-speed bicycle available with hub gear, back-pedal brakes and 2 V-brakes. The bikes have comfortable gel saddles and a diameter seat-post of 27.2 to 31.4 mm.
E-bikes, children's bikes and equipment are available upon request.
Available Frame sizes:
This tour uses branded tour bicycles that are light weight and equipped with 21-speed derailleur and freewheel. Upon request, there is a 7-speed bicycle available with hub gear, back-pedal brakes and 2 V-brakes. The bikes have comfortable gel saddles and a diameter seat-post of 27.2 to 31.4 mm.
E-bikes, children's bikes and equipment are available upon request.
Available Frame sizes:
"My wife and I got back last week after completing the Tauern Radweg trip from Krimml to Passau. Beautiful scenery, well-marked roads and paths, and lovely people. Hotels were excellent. This is the second trip we booked through you (first was Bolzano-Venice). We will definitely use you again, and we recommend you to all our friends."
- Paul and Lee Ann
Salem, Oregon
2011
"We are home from 3 weeks in Europe (2 sets of meetings with the bike tour in the middle week). The bike trip was wonderful! Perfect in so many ways. We could not have had better weather, low 70's and sunny every day. The scenery was spectacular, even a little snow on the mountain peaks. Trails were mostly excellent, with a few more challenging unpaved ones.
"We are enjoying sharing pictures with friends. We would recommend this trip and would love to do it again ourselves! The scenery and gorgeous villages are breathtaking and the bike trails are not crowded. We also had several surprise treats, like watching a herd of sheep walk through the city of Kaprun in the morning, coming down from the mountains for the winter.
"The hotels and service were clean and friendly. Two hotels were not as nice as the others, but clean and adequate (the ones in Kaprun and in Burghausen). Two hotels were outstanding and beautiful (Krimml and Bad Fussing). These two outstanding ones had beautiful rooms with extra touches and very friendly hosts and also wonderful proximity to the waterfall in Krimml and the baths in Bad Fussing.
"We had a few challenges getting used to following the trail guide because it was in German. The English instructions were extremely detailed so we started out just following the trail markers on the trail and watching for the river. After the first day or so, we learned how to use the instructions and map as well. We really liked the idea of the self-guided tour and making our own schedule. Thank you for your help in getting us there - I can't imagine that there is a more beautiful bike trip anywhere."
- Jim and Marlys M., 2012
"My wife and I got back last week after completing the Tauern Radweg trip from Krimml to Passau. Beautiful scenery, well-marked roads and paths, and lovely people. Hotels were excellent. This is the second trip we booked through you (first was Bolzano-Venice). We will definitely use you again, and we recommend you to all our friends."
- Paul and Lee Ann
Salem, Oregon
2011
"We are home from 3 weeks in Europe (2 sets of meetings with the bike tour in the middle week). The bike trip was wonderful! Perfect in so many ways. We could not have had better weather, low 70's and sunny every day. The scenery was spectacular, even a little snow on the mountain peaks. Trails were mostly excellent, with a few more challenging unpaved ones.
"We are enjoying sharing pictures with friends. We would recommend this trip and would love to do it again ourselves! The scenery and gorgeous villages are breathtaking and the bike trails are not crowded. We also had several surprise treats, like watching a herd of sheep walk through the city of Kaprun in the morning, coming down from the mountains for the winter.
"The hotels and service were clean and friendly. Two hotels were not as nice as the others, but clean and adequate (the ones in Kaprun and in Burghausen). Two hotels were outstanding and beautiful (Krimml and Bad Fussing). These two outstanding ones had beautiful rooms with extra touches and very friendly hosts and also wonderful proximity to the waterfall in Krimml and the baths in Bad Fussing.
"We had a few challenges getting used to following the trail guide because it was in German. The English instructions were extremely detailed so we started out just following the trail markers on the trail and watching for the river. After the first day or so, we learned how to use the instructions and map as well. We really liked the idea of the self-guided tour and making our own schedule. Thank you for your help in getting us there - I can't imagine that there is a more beautiful bike trip anywhere."
- Jim and Marlys M., 2012
The bicycle route runs mostly flat along the banks of the rivers Salzach and Inn and consistently through flat to a maximum of undulating terrain with a total decline and a difference in altitude of 700 at the distance Krimml - Passau (320 km). The tour route is mainly on dedicated bicycle paths (about 80% of the time). The remainder of the tour is on quiet roads and dirt or gravel roads. The tour is rated leisure and is for cyclists in average physical condition.
The bicycle route runs mostly flat along the banks of the rivers Salzach and Inn and consistently through flat to a maximum of undulating terrain with a total decline and a difference in altitude of 700 at the distance Krimml - Passau (320 km). The tour route is mainly on dedicated bicycle paths (about 80% of the time). The remainder of the tour is on quiet roads and dirt or gravel roads. The tour is rated leisure and is for cyclists in average physical condition.
Weather Underground offers information on average and record temperatures at many destinations throughout the globe. Type a destination in the search box and enter a travel date range to learn about seasonal weather patterns.
Weather Underground offers information on average and record temperatures at many destinations throughout the globe. Type a destination in the search box and enter a travel date range to learn about seasonal weather patterns.
Tour start
Nearest airport:
Nearest train station:
Tour end
Nearest airport:
Nearest train station:
Transfer from Passau to Krimml available. Departs Saturdays and Sundays at 9:00am €50 per person
Tips for getting to and from your tour >
Tour start
Nearest airport:
Nearest train station:
Tour end
Nearest airport:
Nearest train station:
Transfer from Passau to Krimml available. Departs Saturdays and Sundays at 9:00am €50 per person
Tips for getting to and from your tour >
The following article was written by BikeToursDirect founder and president Jim Johnson after his first tour along the Tauern Bike Path. It originally appeared in the Los Angeles Times.
The Tauernradweg (Tauern bike path) in Austria is a bicyclist's dream come true. It cuts across some of the world's most mountainous terrain, yet it's almost all downhill. It passes through dozens of picturesque towns and villages, yet it stays almost totally clear of the traffic of daily life and commerce--meandering instead through Alpine meadows and woodland and along the banks of the Salzach River. And it's clearly marked, with signs at every turn, for worry-free riding.
The path starts in Krimml, a mountain village at 3,400 feet in central Austria, and ends 100 miles and 2,000 vertical feet later in Salzburg. While some fanatics ride the route in reverse, I preferred to pack my rental bike, a hybrid--a cross between a mountain bike and a street bike--and gear and take the train from Salzburg to Krimml, a three-hour trip to the west. From there I would let gravity take over for the four-day return.
Although several companies transport luggage and offer guide services to cyclists, I toted saddlebags and invested $10 in a route map and book. I'd booked my hotels in advance, allowing for about 25 miles of bicycling a day. (I carried none of the usual spare tire or repair kit since there were repair services in gas stations, inns and restaurants along the route.)
When I arrived in Krimml, I realized I had underestimated the impact of altitude (and, perhaps, jet lag) on endurance. Even a test ride around the village left me winded. A 90-minute walk midway up the 1,000-foot Krimml waterfall, the highest in central Europe, almost did me in. After dinner--a local seasonal specialty of fried wild mushrooms--at the Hotel Post, I sat at my window and watched the lights in the valley fade, one after another. I was exhausted.
Undaunted--and with no other choice--I took off the next morning, pushing off from the "Start" sign at the base of the waterfall along the path, which, at this point, was paved. A light mist washed over me as I looked out past the steeple of the 13th-Century parish church into the cloud-filled valley below.
Within seconds, and without pedaling, I was hitting 15, then 20, then 25 m.p.h., as the village disappeared behind me. I braked as I came alongside the bank of the Salzach, whose waters would guide me toward Salzburg for the next four days. As the clouds burned off, snow-topped mountain peaks came into view. From both river banks, meadows stretched to the base of the mountains, becoming nearly vertical as soil hit rock. My fatigue vanished.
The Tauernradweg runs along the northern boundary of Hohe Tauern National Park, Europe's largest, complete with 246 glaciers and 304 mountains over 9,000 feet. Ibex and other Alpine creatures run wild.
I paused again and could hear the wind in the trees, the birds, small brooks and distant waterfalls. The scents of fresh-cut hay and moist moss hung in the air. Overhead lay the first of several ruins I'd spot along the way, the stony outcroppings of the ancient Friedburg castle. I'd found paradise.
The sounds of cowbells jolted me from my reverie, as I made way for a dozen bovines crowding down the path. A bull with menacing horns glared at my bright red jersey, then thought the better of it.
The path carried me through tiny hamlets, some no more than a few farmhouses and a chapel. In larger villages, such as Bramberg, life centered around a small market square bordered by a medieval parish church, several shops and an inn.
Most of the time, however, the path wound through farms and fields. At one point a sign even asked cyclists to close the gate behind them to keep the cows in.
It was September harvest time, and I passed whole families toiling with scythes and rakes, cutting and stacking hay. Husbands and wives worked side by side, the women in puffy peasant blouses and skirts, the men in green-trimmed leather pants and work shirts.
In front of most homes, trees brimmed with apples, pears and plums, and I stopped to see if I could buy some from an elderly farmer. "Moment, \o7 bitte\f7 ," he said and disappeared. He returned with a small sack and filled it with ripe fruit. He refused money, pushing it back with leathery hands. After I rode another 50 yards, I stopped and looked back. His wife had joined him, and the two waved as if bidding farewell to an old friend.
Around the bend, a neighbor displayed similar hospitality with a sign offering "Fresh Water for Cyclists." I filled my bottle with ice-cold water flowing from the mouth of a wood-carved knight. Behind it, a wooden home lay bathed with waves of impatiens and petunias. A few minutes later, I entered Hollersbach, nicknamed "the blossoming village" both for its proud floral displays and for its botanical garden with more than 500 different kinds of flowers and herbs.
After three hours, 21 miles and a vertical drop of nearly 1,000 feet, I arrived in Mittersill, the first sizable town along the route. I locked my bike in the market square, entered the Meilinger Tavern and enjoyed a lunch of soup with dumplings, spaetzle (a kind of dense noodle) with native cheese and, for dessert, strips of crepe mixed with blueberries and powdered sugar. That's another benefit of riding: gorging without guilt.
From the 14th to 16th centuries, Mittersill lay at the crossroad of two major trade routes. From Italy came wine, olive oil, fruit and silk. In return, Austria sent salt, mined nearby and known for centuries as "white gold." Celts and Romans followed the same route, and I passed a Roman mile-marker later in the day. A medieval watchtower still stands, serving today as a museum marking a millennium of commerce and local history.
Later that afternoon I arrived at my first day's destination, Zell am See, an idyllic lakeside town encircled by mountains. My itinerary called for a one-night's stay in Zell, but I wished I'd planned several. Zell is a year-round tourist resort, and I soon found out why. First, due to strict pollution controls and restrictions against gasoline boat engines, the lake itself is known as the cleanest bathing lake in Europe. Others may be cleaner--but far too cold for bathing. As I walked my bike along the promenade, I saw windsurfers, sailboats and paddle boats. Families fished from docks, and teen-agers water-skied behind electric-powered motorboats.
Zell am See and neighboring Kaprun also draw thousands of hikers weekly, from casual day-trippers to more dedicated climbers who spend their nights in mountain huts.
A local cycling map and brochure described nearly 40 routes, ranging from seven miles along the lake to 60 miles winding over nearby mountains.
Next time.
I awoke the following morning to the sound of rain splashing on my window. After a breakfast of fresh fruit and muesli in my hotel, the Sporthotel Alpin, I retrieved my bike from the hotel garage, loaded my packs, put on my rain gear and headed out. Luckily, as the waters of the Salzach widened, most of the hard-packed dirt route was sheltered beneath a leafy canopy. The rain splattered on the leaves and misted downward in a symphony of sounds and scents.
As the symphony reached a downpour crescendo, however, I took refuge in a small restaurant in the village of Taxenbach. Even my mother's chicken soup had never tasted better--or warmer.
After lunch, the rain stopped, and I took one of several hillier side options, climbing nearly 600 feet to a ledge overlooking the river. It was exhausting, but rewarding. At the top, I shared the view with a pair of weary Dutch cyclists who noted, with some understatement, that their country offers flatter cycling. Clouds puffed like cotton through the valley. I slept well that night, just outside the town of St. Johann.
Until now, the route had run due east. The next morning, the Salzach and I turned north toward Salzburg. By midmorning, the powerful Hohenwerfen castle came into view in the distance. The route passes by the base of the castle, and I walked up the steep path through a series of mighty walls. Built in 1077 and rebuilt over the centuries, the fortress today stands a peaceful watch over the river. Its dungeons are closed, the guns just for show.
Just north of Werfen, two mountain ranges come together, and the Salzach roars through the narrow chasm, kicking up 15-foot standing waves. Cars and trains can take a tunnel through the mountains. Bicyclists, however, must climb through the Lueg Pass, which the river has carved between two sheer cliff walls. As I approached the pass, the walls seemed to merge. To the right, mountain. To the left, the surging Salzach and more mountain. Ahead, a sign warning of falling rocks. I pedaled faster. It was great.
After the only real climb of the main route, I coasted downhill into the town of Golling, a manicured medieval town lined with outdoor cafes. I detoured along a path into the deeply wooded Bluntau Valley, sharing the way with families, young couples walking hand in hand and more cows.
I doubled back and passed St. Nikolaus', a small Gothic pilgrimage church set atop a craggy outcropping, where a wedding was just ending. I got off the bike and walked 10 minutes to the 250-foot Golling waterfall. Even after the 1,000-foot Krimml waterfall, I stood in awe of its power and beauty.
Within an hour I was standing in Hallein, a town of nearly 20,000 residents and the final overnight stop of my journey. Hallein had been the center of the millennia-old salt industry until the mines closed in 1989, and the streets were lined with the pastel-painted high facades of affluent merchant homes. Medieval alleyways ran in every direction, and I parked my bike to explore. In the distance I saw the entrance to the old mines, a popular attraction where visitors tour the caverns by whooshing down giant wooden slides, walking on ramps across underground lakes and riding in a small miners train.
I eventually passed through the marketplace to the 12th-Century Romanesque Dekanats Church, where "Silent Night" composer Franz Gruber once served as choir director. His grave lay outside the door, his home just beyond. After a dinner that ended with Salzburger Nockerl, a souffle-like specialty, I took a final walk around town and went to bed.
My final day of riding carried the anticipation of seeing the famous Hohensalzburg fortress that dominates the Salzburg skyline. Only nine miles lay ahead.
The bike path ran through dense forest, and I heard Salzburg before I saw it. It was Sunday morning, and the city's church bells rang in chorus. Finally, through a break in the trees, I saw the fortress towering over the baroque spires of the city. I'd made it.
During the week, cars clog the city's narrow streets. On Sundays, pedestrians and cyclists rule. I rode along the Getreidegasse, Salzburg's most famous medieval alley. I slowly made my way past the palatial Residenz, former home of the ruling archbishops, now a museum, to the cathedral, where street musicians played their guitars and artists drew chalk Madonnas on the sidewalk.
I parked the bike and climbed up to the fortress. On previous visits to Salzburg, I'd spent hours there looking out over the city. This time, I looked instead to the south, where I could see the bicycle path along the Salzach disappear gradually into the mountains. Memories of the past four days came in a flood, buffeted by the bells of the city calling the faithful to Mass. Despite the glorious view below, however, the feeling that lingered was somewhat bittersweet; on a bicycle tour, after all, getting here is all the fun.
The following article was written by BikeToursDirect founder and president Jim Johnson after his first tour along the Tauern Bike Path. It originally appeared in the Los Angeles Times.
The Tauernradweg (Tauern bike path) in Austria is a bicyclist's dream come true. It cuts across some of the world's most mountainous terrain, yet it's almost all downhill. It passes through dozens of picturesque towns and villages, yet it stays almost totally clear of the traffic of daily life and commerce--meandering instead through Alpine meadows and woodland and along the banks of the Salzach River. And it's clearly marked, with signs at every turn, for worry-free riding.
The path starts in Krimml, a mountain village at 3,400 feet in central Austria, and ends 100 miles and 2,000 vertical feet later in Salzburg. While some fanatics ride the route in reverse, I preferred to pack my rental bike, a hybrid--a cross between a mountain bike and a street bike--and gear and take the train from Salzburg to Krimml, a three-hour trip to the west. From there I would let gravity take over for the four-day return.
Although several companies transport luggage and offer guide services to cyclists, I toted saddlebags and invested $10 in a route map and book. I'd booked my hotels in advance, allowing for about 25 miles of bicycling a day. (I carried none of the usual spare tire or repair kit since there were repair services in gas stations, inns and restaurants along the route.)
When I arrived in Krimml, I realized I had underestimated the impact of altitude (and, perhaps, jet lag) on endurance. Even a test ride around the village left me winded. A 90-minute walk midway up the 1,000-foot Krimml waterfall, the highest in central Europe, almost did me in. After dinner--a local seasonal specialty of fried wild mushrooms--at the Hotel Post, I sat at my window and watched the lights in the valley fade, one after another. I was exhausted.
Undaunted--and with no other choice--I took off the next morning, pushing off from the "Start" sign at the base of the waterfall along the path, which, at this point, was paved. A light mist washed over me as I looked out past the steeple of the 13th-Century parish church into the cloud-filled valley below.
Within seconds, and without pedaling, I was hitting 15, then 20, then 25 m.p.h., as the village disappeared behind me. I braked as I came alongside the bank of the Salzach, whose waters would guide me toward Salzburg for the next four days. As the clouds burned off, snow-topped mountain peaks came into view. From both river banks, meadows stretched to the base of the mountains, becoming nearly vertical as soil hit rock. My fatigue vanished.
The Tauernradweg runs along the northern boundary of Hohe Tauern National Park, Europe's largest, complete with 246 glaciers and 304 mountains over 9,000 feet. Ibex and other Alpine creatures run wild.
I paused again and could hear the wind in the trees, the birds, small brooks and distant waterfalls. The scents of fresh-cut hay and moist moss hung in the air. Overhead lay the first of several ruins I'd spot along the way, the stony outcroppings of the ancient Friedburg castle. I'd found paradise.
The sounds of cowbells jolted me from my reverie, as I made way for a dozen bovines crowding down the path. A bull with menacing horns glared at my bright red jersey, then thought the better of it.
The path carried me through tiny hamlets, some no more than a few farmhouses and a chapel. In larger villages, such as Bramberg, life centered around a small market square bordered by a medieval parish church, several shops and an inn.
Most of the time, however, the path wound through farms and fields. At one point a sign even asked cyclists to close the gate behind them to keep the cows in.
It was September harvest time, and I passed whole families toiling with scythes and rakes, cutting and stacking hay. Husbands and wives worked side by side, the women in puffy peasant blouses and skirts, the men in green-trimmed leather pants and work shirts.
In front of most homes, trees brimmed with apples, pears and plums, and I stopped to see if I could buy some from an elderly farmer. "Moment, \o7 bitte\f7 ," he said and disappeared. He returned with a small sack and filled it with ripe fruit. He refused money, pushing it back with leathery hands. After I rode another 50 yards, I stopped and looked back. His wife had joined him, and the two waved as if bidding farewell to an old friend.
Around the bend, a neighbor displayed similar hospitality with a sign offering "Fresh Water for Cyclists." I filled my bottle with ice-cold water flowing from the mouth of a wood-carved knight. Behind it, a wooden home lay bathed with waves of impatiens and petunias. A few minutes later, I entered Hollersbach, nicknamed "the blossoming village" both for its proud floral displays and for its botanical garden with more than 500 different kinds of flowers and herbs.
After three hours, 21 miles and a vertical drop of nearly 1,000 feet, I arrived in Mittersill, the first sizable town along the route. I locked my bike in the market square, entered the Meilinger Tavern and enjoyed a lunch of soup with dumplings, spaetzle (a kind of dense noodle) with native cheese and, for dessert, strips of crepe mixed with blueberries and powdered sugar. That's another benefit of riding: gorging without guilt.
From the 14th to 16th centuries, Mittersill lay at the crossroad of two major trade routes. From Italy came wine, olive oil, fruit and silk. In return, Austria sent salt, mined nearby and known for centuries as "white gold." Celts and Romans followed the same route, and I passed a Roman mile-marker later in the day. A medieval watchtower still stands, serving today as a museum marking a millennium of commerce and local history.
Later that afternoon I arrived at my first day's destination, Zell am See, an idyllic lakeside town encircled by mountains. My itinerary called for a one-night's stay in Zell, but I wished I'd planned several. Zell is a year-round tourist resort, and I soon found out why. First, due to strict pollution controls and restrictions against gasoline boat engines, the lake itself is known as the cleanest bathing lake in Europe. Others may be cleaner--but far too cold for bathing. As I walked my bike along the promenade, I saw windsurfers, sailboats and paddle boats. Families fished from docks, and teen-agers water-skied behind electric-powered motorboats.
Zell am See and neighboring Kaprun also draw thousands of hikers weekly, from casual day-trippers to more dedicated climbers who spend their nights in mountain huts.
A local cycling map and brochure described nearly 40 routes, ranging from seven miles along the lake to 60 miles winding over nearby mountains.
Next time.
I awoke the following morning to the sound of rain splashing on my window. After a breakfast of fresh fruit and muesli in my hotel, the Sporthotel Alpin, I retrieved my bike from the hotel garage, loaded my packs, put on my rain gear and headed out. Luckily, as the waters of the Salzach widened, most of the hard-packed dirt route was sheltered beneath a leafy canopy. The rain splattered on the leaves and misted downward in a symphony of sounds and scents.
As the symphony reached a downpour crescendo, however, I took refuge in a small restaurant in the village of Taxenbach. Even my mother's chicken soup had never tasted better--or warmer.
After lunch, the rain stopped, and I took one of several hillier side options, climbing nearly 600 feet to a ledge overlooking the river. It was exhausting, but rewarding. At the top, I shared the view with a pair of weary Dutch cyclists who noted, with some understatement, that their country offers flatter cycling. Clouds puffed like cotton through the valley. I slept well that night, just outside the town of St. Johann.
Until now, the route had run due east. The next morning, the Salzach and I turned north toward Salzburg. By midmorning, the powerful Hohenwerfen castle came into view in the distance. The route passes by the base of the castle, and I walked up the steep path through a series of mighty walls. Built in 1077 and rebuilt over the centuries, the fortress today stands a peaceful watch over the river. Its dungeons are closed, the guns just for show.
Just north of Werfen, two mountain ranges come together, and the Salzach roars through the narrow chasm, kicking up 15-foot standing waves. Cars and trains can take a tunnel through the mountains. Bicyclists, however, must climb through the Lueg Pass, which the river has carved between two sheer cliff walls. As I approached the pass, the walls seemed to merge. To the right, mountain. To the left, the surging Salzach and more mountain. Ahead, a sign warning of falling rocks. I pedaled faster. It was great.
After the only real climb of the main route, I coasted downhill into the town of Golling, a manicured medieval town lined with outdoor cafes. I detoured along a path into the deeply wooded Bluntau Valley, sharing the way with families, young couples walking hand in hand and more cows.
I doubled back and passed St. Nikolaus', a small Gothic pilgrimage church set atop a craggy outcropping, where a wedding was just ending. I got off the bike and walked 10 minutes to the 250-foot Golling waterfall. Even after the 1,000-foot Krimml waterfall, I stood in awe of its power and beauty.
Within an hour I was standing in Hallein, a town of nearly 20,000 residents and the final overnight stop of my journey. Hallein had been the center of the millennia-old salt industry until the mines closed in 1989, and the streets were lined with the pastel-painted high facades of affluent merchant homes. Medieval alleyways ran in every direction, and I parked my bike to explore. In the distance I saw the entrance to the old mines, a popular attraction where visitors tour the caverns by whooshing down giant wooden slides, walking on ramps across underground lakes and riding in a small miners train.
I eventually passed through the marketplace to the 12th-Century Romanesque Dekanats Church, where "Silent Night" composer Franz Gruber once served as choir director. His grave lay outside the door, his home just beyond. After a dinner that ended with Salzburger Nockerl, a souffle-like specialty, I took a final walk around town and went to bed.
My final day of riding carried the anticipation of seeing the famous Hohensalzburg fortress that dominates the Salzburg skyline. Only nine miles lay ahead.
The bike path ran through dense forest, and I heard Salzburg before I saw it. It was Sunday morning, and the city's church bells rang in chorus. Finally, through a break in the trees, I saw the fortress towering over the baroque spires of the city. I'd made it.
During the week, cars clog the city's narrow streets. On Sundays, pedestrians and cyclists rule. I rode along the Getreidegasse, Salzburg's most famous medieval alley. I slowly made my way past the palatial Residenz, former home of the ruling archbishops, now a museum, to the cathedral, where street musicians played their guitars and artists drew chalk Madonnas on the sidewalk.
I parked the bike and climbed up to the fortress. On previous visits to Salzburg, I'd spent hours there looking out over the city. This time, I looked instead to the south, where I could see the bicycle path along the Salzach disappear gradually into the mountains. Memories of the past four days came in a flood, buffeted by the bells of the city calling the faithful to Mass. Despite the glorious view below, however, the feeling that lingered was somewhat bittersweet; on a bicycle tour, after all, getting here is all the fun.
For 20 years, Radreisefreunde has offered bike tours throughout the world, and are a very experienced company. They try to act flexible, as they offer individual service for each and every client. The quality of their journeys and satisfaction of their clients is the most important aspect to their company. Throughout their 20 years of business, their excellent service and quality has contributed to many clients returning on multiple tours.
Radreisefreunde would be pleased to welcome you on their tours!
For 20 years, Radreisefreunde has offered bike tours throughout the world, and are a very experienced company. They try to act flexible, as they offer individual service for each and every client. The quality of their journeys and satisfaction of their clients is the most important aspect to their company. Throughout their 20 years of business, their excellent service and quality has contributed to many clients returning on multiple tours.
Radreisefreunde would be pleased to welcome you on their tours!
Cancellation through the customer/substitute participant/change in booking
1. The customer can withdraw from the agreement at any time. We suggest declaring the withdrawal in writing. In case of withdrawal or non-participation without a previous withdrawal declaration we are authorized to charge the following cancellation fees:
- Up to the 28th day before the beginning of the journey: 10%, at least € 50,
- From the 27th to the 8th day before the beginning of the journey: 50% of the travel price
- From the 7th to the 1st day before the beginning of the journey: 80 % of the travel price
- On the arrival day and non-participation: 100% of the travel price
In each case a cancellation insurance is recommendable.
2. Every registered trip participant can let a third party take his place, if we are informed up to three days before the beginning of the journey. Radreisefreunde can oppose the participation of a third party because of important reasons. The following withdrawal conditions are effective in such a situation. If a third party takes the place of the registered participant, the original contract is not affected. We are authorized to charge € 50,-- for the change in booking.
3. Changes with regard to number of participants, number or type of rooms, hotel category or catering are basically possible up to 14 days before the beginning of the journey. However, we will have to charge you an alternation fee for the arising expenses. We will charge € 50,-- for each change in booking.
Signing the travel agreement
1. When booking a journey the customer offers Radreisefreunde the conclusion of a binding travel agreement. The registration takes place in writing and on the intended form. Any other form of registration, whether on the phone, oral, or written with us or one of our partner offices is also binding. The registration is made by the customer also for all the other named participants. The customer accepts the binding conditions of travel at issue - also in the name and in the behalf of the named participants.
2. The agreement is reached when Radreisefreunde or one of its partner offices accepts the booking and sends you a booking confirmation.
3. Collateral agreements and changes of the signed travel agreement need to be confirmed by us in writing.
Services
1. The service descriptions in the current Radreisefreunde-catalogue or web site cover the range of our contractual services. Differing declarations or pledges from mediating travel agents, town or hotel brochures or other third parties are not relevant. The indicated towns of each stage are usually and mainly the destinations of the stage. In some cases we have to assume your consent to take into account other towns in the near surroundings without deduction.
2. The trip price is based on one person in a double room. A single room can be booked - if available - for an extra charge. In some hotels, however, the number of available single rooms is limited, so that you might have to do at a pinch with a little bit simpler accommodation or be possibly accommodated in another hotel or private guest house. If, by way of exception, a single room cannot be made available, you will have to share a double room with one of the other participants. In such a case, of course, the extra price you have been charge will be proportionately refunded.
Liability and restriction of liability
1. Radreisefreunde is liable in the scope of the obligation to exercise diligence of an ordinary trader for the conscientious preparation of the journey, the careful choice and monitoring of the services and the correctness of the for the time of the trip, valid at the time of the publication of our catalogue, description of the services.
2. Participation in a bike tour is at one's own risk. Minors can participate in a trip only in the company of a legal guardian.
3. Participants are responsible for their personal health being up to the demands of the journeys.
4. Participants are also responsible for the compliance with the traffic regulations.
5. The terms of transport of the respective haulier (bus, boat, plane and the like) are valid for all transports. Customer's money protection in accordance with EU-decree You money is safe with us. Customer's money protection in accordance with EU-decree The Radreisefreunde is recorded in the organisers register of the ministry of economic affairs with the number 1999/0035. With the package tours booked byRadreisefreunde (in case of insolvency), already paid payments for travel services that have not been provided any more and necessary expenses for the return journey are covered through a bank guarantee. In case of insolvency refund applications should be delivered within 8 weeks from the onset of the claim.
6. We cannot be made liable if a planned sightseeing tour cannot be made, for whatever reasons (rebuilding, renovation etc.) that cannot be influenced by us.
7. Should any disadvantages occur that have been caused by one of our chosen service carriers or us only, neither wilfully nor gross negligently, our liability - out of whichever legal argument - is limited to the triple amount of the tour price.
8. Should a tour be cancelled for reasons that we cannot influence (strike, natural disaster and the like) or should less than 8 persons participate in a guided tour - if there is no other minimum number of participants indicated in the corresponding tour description - we reserve the right to cancel the tour up to 25 days before the planned beginning of the tour. In this case you will be informed as soon as possible and receive your money back immediately. There are no other legitimate claims.
Warranty
1. Legal redress If the tour does not proceed according to the contract, legal redress can be sought. What is contractual is determined on the one side by the service description, on the other by the locality of the country of destination. Radreisefreundecan refuse the redress, if an extraordinary effort is required, is however authorized to provide redress in the form of substitute services, whether of equal or higher worth. The customer can refuse such a substitute service only in case of important, objectively recognizable reasons. The redress claim should be directed at us or the travel guide. The travel guide is however not authorized to acknowledge the claim.
2. Reduction of the travel price After his return the customer can claim a reduction of the travel price for the duration of the tour that has not proceeded according to the contract until legal redress has been provided through Radreisefreunde. Legal redress will not be provided if the traveler intentionally refrained to indicate the shortcomings to the offices named in VI.1. on time to make the legal redress for these possible.
3. Any claims that might arise should be asserted up to one month latest after the contractually intended termination of the tour.
Protection of Client's Payments
Protection of clients' payments is according to the guidelines of the European Union dated June 13, 1990 (90/314/EWG, article 2 Z1) - as well as the Austrian law of travel agent security decree (RSV) BGBl. II Nr. 16/1999.
In the event of insolvency the tour packages organised by Radreisefreunde are insured by a bank guarantee. This insurance is valid for services paid, but not rendered and for eventual costs of clients return to home base.
In the event of insolvency all claims above and beyond the bank guarantee have to reach the handling agent within 8 weeks of insolvency date.
Cooperation obligation
1. If travel material is not provided on time, the traveller should informRadreisefreunde immediately.
2. If any service interference occurs, the traveler is obliged to contribute everything possible within reasonableness to get rid of the interference and to avoid or to limit the possible damages that may arise. The customer is especially obliged to inform the offices named in VI.1. of any complaints immediately. They are authorized to provide legal redress, as far as this is possible. If the customer refrains intentionally to indicate the shortcomings, a claim for reduction cannot be made.
Miscellaneous
1. The customer is responsible for the compliance with all passport, visa, custom, and health regulations.
2. We have to reserve the right to change prices and services, as well as to correct mistakes and printing errors.
3. The inoperativeness of single regulations of the travel agreement does not result in inoperativeness of the whole agreement.
Legal domicile/applicable law
1. The agreement conditions are subject to Austrian law.
2. The customer can sue Radreisefreunde only at its headquarters.
3. The customer's place of residence is decisive for the tour operator's suits against the customer, unless the suit is directed against entrepreneurs or persons that do not have a general legal domicile in Austria. In this case the tour operator's place of headquarters is decisive.
Cancellation through the customer/substitute participant/change in booking
1. The customer can withdraw from the agreement at any time. We suggest declaring the withdrawal in writing. In case of withdrawal or non-participation without a previous withdrawal declaration we are authorized to charge the following cancellation fees:
- Up to the 28th day before the beginning of the journey: 10%, at least € 50,
- From the 27th to the 8th day before the beginning of the journey: 50% of the travel price
- From the 7th to the 1st day before the beginning of the journey: 80 % of the travel price
- On the arrival day and non-participation: 100% of the travel price
In each case a cancellation insurance is recommendable.
2. Every registered trip participant can let a third party take his place, if we are informed up to three days before the beginning of the journey. Radreisefreunde can oppose the participation of a third party because of important reasons. The following withdrawal conditions are effective in such a situation. If a third party takes the place of the registered participant, the original contract is not affected. We are authorized to charge € 50,-- for the change in booking.
3. Changes with regard to number of participants, number or type of rooms, hotel category or catering are basically possible up to 14 days before the beginning of the journey. However, we will have to charge you an alternation fee for the arising expenses. We will charge € 50,-- for each change in booking.
Signing the travel agreement
1. When booking a journey the customer offers Radreisefreunde the conclusion of a binding travel agreement. The registration takes place in writing and on the intended form. Any other form of registration, whether on the phone, oral, or written with us or one of our partner offices is also binding. The registration is made by the customer also for all the other named participants. The customer accepts the binding conditions of travel at issue - also in the name and in the behalf of the named participants.
2. The agreement is reached when Radreisefreunde or one of its partner offices accepts the booking and sends you a booking confirmation.
3. Collateral agreements and changes of the signed travel agreement need to be confirmed by us in writing.
Services
1. The service descriptions in the current Radreisefreunde-catalogue or web site cover the range of our contractual services. Differing declarations or pledges from mediating travel agents, town or hotel brochures or other third parties are not relevant. The indicated towns of each stage are usually and mainly the destinations of the stage. In some cases we have to assume your consent to take into account other towns in the near surroundings without deduction.
2. The trip price is based on one person in a double room. A single room can be booked - if available - for an extra charge. In some hotels, however, the number of available single rooms is limited, so that you might have to do at a pinch with a little bit simpler accommodation or be possibly accommodated in another hotel or private guest house. If, by way of exception, a single room cannot be made available, you will have to share a double room with one of the other participants. In such a case, of course, the extra price you have been charge will be proportionately refunded.
Liability and restriction of liability
1. Radreisefreunde is liable in the scope of the obligation to exercise diligence of an ordinary trader for the conscientious preparation of the journey, the careful choice and monitoring of the services and the correctness of the for the time of the trip, valid at the time of the publication of our catalogue, description of the services.
2. Participation in a bike tour is at one's own risk. Minors can participate in a trip only in the company of a legal guardian.
3. Participants are responsible for their personal health being up to the demands of the journeys.
4. Participants are also responsible for the compliance with the traffic regulations.
5. The terms of transport of the respective haulier (bus, boat, plane and the like) are valid for all transports. Customer's money protection in accordance with EU-decree You money is safe with us. Customer's money protection in accordance with EU-decree The Radreisefreunde is recorded in the organisers register of the ministry of economic affairs with the number 1999/0035. With the package tours booked byRadreisefreunde (in case of insolvency), already paid payments for travel services that have not been provided any more and necessary expenses for the return journey are covered through a bank guarantee. In case of insolvency refund applications should be delivered within 8 weeks from the onset of the claim.
6. We cannot be made liable if a planned sightseeing tour cannot be made, for whatever reasons (rebuilding, renovation etc.) that cannot be influenced by us.
7. Should any disadvantages occur that have been caused by one of our chosen service carriers or us only, neither wilfully nor gross negligently, our liability - out of whichever legal argument - is limited to the triple amount of the tour price.
8. Should a tour be cancelled for reasons that we cannot influence (strike, natural disaster and the like) or should less than 8 persons participate in a guided tour - if there is no other minimum number of participants indicated in the corresponding tour description - we reserve the right to cancel the tour up to 25 days before the planned beginning of the tour. In this case you will be informed as soon as possible and receive your money back immediately. There are no other legitimate claims.
Warranty
1. Legal redress If the tour does not proceed according to the contract, legal redress can be sought. What is contractual is determined on the one side by the service description, on the other by the locality of the country of destination. Radreisefreundecan refuse the redress, if an extraordinary effort is required, is however authorized to provide redress in the form of substitute services, whether of equal or higher worth. The customer can refuse such a substitute service only in case of important, objectively recognizable reasons. The redress claim should be directed at us or the travel guide. The travel guide is however not authorized to acknowledge the claim.
2. Reduction of the travel price After his return the customer can claim a reduction of the travel price for the duration of the tour that has not proceeded according to the contract until legal redress has been provided through Radreisefreunde. Legal redress will not be provided if the traveler intentionally refrained to indicate the shortcomings to the offices named in VI.1. on time to make the legal redress for these possible.
3. Any claims that might arise should be asserted up to one month latest after the contractually intended termination of the tour.
Protection of Client's Payments
Protection of clients' payments is according to the guidelines of the European Union dated June 13, 1990 (90/314/EWG, article 2 Z1) - as well as the Austrian law of travel agent security decree (RSV) BGBl. II Nr. 16/1999.
In the event of insolvency the tour packages organised by Radreisefreunde are insured by a bank guarantee. This insurance is valid for services paid, but not rendered and for eventual costs of clients return to home base.
In the event of insolvency all claims above and beyond the bank guarantee have to reach the handling agent within 8 weeks of insolvency date.
Cooperation obligation
1. If travel material is not provided on time, the traveller should informRadreisefreunde immediately.
2. If any service interference occurs, the traveler is obliged to contribute everything possible within reasonableness to get rid of the interference and to avoid or to limit the possible damages that may arise. The customer is especially obliged to inform the offices named in VI.1. of any complaints immediately. They are authorized to provide legal redress, as far as this is possible. If the customer refrains intentionally to indicate the shortcomings, a claim for reduction cannot be made.
Miscellaneous
1. The customer is responsible for the compliance with all passport, visa, custom, and health regulations.
2. We have to reserve the right to change prices and services, as well as to correct mistakes and printing errors.
3. The inoperativeness of single regulations of the travel agreement does not result in inoperativeness of the whole agreement.
Legal domicile/applicable law
1. The agreement conditions are subject to Austrian law.
2. The customer can sue Radreisefreunde only at its headquarters.
3. The customer's place of residence is decisive for the tour operator's suits against the customer, unless the suit is directed against entrepreneurs or persons that do not have a general legal domicile in Austria. In this case the tour operator's place of headquarters is decisive.
